Mithridate SS27 at London Fashion Week: Daniel Fletcher's Eighties power dressing, and the Guangzhou-to-London structure behind it
Mithridate's design studio is in London, but the label answers to a Guangzhou head office run by CEO Tina Jiang. Daniel Fletcher arrived there from Fiorucci, by way of Louis Vuitton and JW Anderson, to take the creative director job founding creative chief Demon Zhang had held since Tina Jiang founded the label in 2018. The Eighties references on Thursday's runway aren't a one-off: his SS26 collection, "Edge of Seventeen" (September 2025), already worked rugby stripes, pinstripe shirting and painted-on numbers into a Sloane Ranger theme. Two seasons apart, the vocabulary is repeating.
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01MITHRIDATE'S DANIEL FLETCHER TOOK LONDON FASHION WEEK'S SS27 SLOT STRAIGHT INTO THE EIGHTIES: CORSETRY AS CUMMERBUNDS, OVERSIZED SHIRTS TUCKED INTO PINSTRIPE SHORTS.
02THE REFERENCE WAS EXPLICIT: LEATHER JACKETS, QUIFFED HAIR, PUSSYBOW BLOUSES, A SOUNDTRACK RUNNING "SUIT IT UP" INTO "LIFE ON MARS".
03TUTUS SHARED THE RUNWAY WITH TAILORING, RUGBY STRIPES STILL IN THE MIX. THE MESSAGE WAS THE BALANCE OF WORK AND PLAY.
04BACKSTAGE WENT FULL BLITZ KIDS: HALF MOON MANICURES, STATEMENT LINER, HAIR BLOWN OUT AND FLIPPED, THE WHOLE PALETTE KEPT NUDE.
05MITHRIDATE WAS FOUNDED IN LONDON IN 2018 BY TINA JIANG. FLETCHER, PREVIOUSLY AT JW ANDERSON, LOUIS VUITTON AND FIORUCCI, TOOK OVER AS CREATIVE DIRECTOR IN JANUARY 2025, SUCCEEDING FOUNDING CREATIVE CHIEF DEMON ZHANG.
06A HOUSE FOUNDED IN LONDON IN 2018, RUN FROM GUANGZHOU, WITH A BRITISH CREATIVE DIRECTOR WORKING BRITISH ARCHIVE REFERENCES.