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Rory William Docherty SS27, What Ties Us Together: the knot from his Painter's Shirt remade in woven metal, cotton, printed organza, silk jacquard and cast gold

Rory William Docherty's SS27 collection, What Ties Us Together, was shown in the 1901 Ballroom at the Andaz hotel on Liverpool Street, in daylight under the room's glass canopy. His own account of the title: "shared values, mutual respect, a care for craftsmanship". It follows Identity, the autumn collection about people, place and provenance. The credits read like the theme. The straw hats are by Lyttelton Hat Co, the show had its own scent by Abel Fragrance, and Samuel Drira styled it. Jordan Draffin, who cast the knot jewellery, is also the label's executive coordinator. Docherty works unisex and seasonless, and sells through stockists in Australia, Japan and New Zealand.

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01RORY WILLIAM DOCHERTY BUILT HIS SPRING 2027 COLLECTION ON ONE DETAIL: THE KNOT. HE SHOWED IT IN LONDON ON 20 SEPTEMBER, UNDER A HOTEL BALLROOM'S GLASS DOME.
02DOCHERTY IS A BRITISH-BORN DESIGNER AND ARTIST BASED IN NEW ZEALAND. HIS FABRICS START AS HIS OWN DRAWINGS AND PAINTINGS.
03THE COLLECTION IS CALLED WHAT TIES US TOGETHER. THE KNOT COMES FROM HIS PAINTER'S SHIRT, WHICH FASTENS WITH KNOTTED TIES DOWN THE FRONT.
04HIS SHOW NOTES TRACE THAT SHIRT TO HIS DRAWINGS OF PUFFINS ON THE ISLE OF SKYE, THEIR BEAKS FULL OF LIVE HERRING.
05NOW THE KNOTS CHANGE MATERIAL. WOVEN METAL ONES ARE TIED IN A MASS ACROSS A SHEER METALLIC COCOON JACKET.
06COTTON KNOTS ANCHOR SKIRTS AND SHIRTS AT THE HIP AND SHOULDER. ON A SHIFT DRESS, KNOTS PRINTED ON ORGANZA SIT UNDER REAL ONES.
07ONE FABRIC BEGAN AS A ROPE OF KNOTTED NEWSPRINT. HE DREW IT LARGE IN PENCIL, THEN HAD THE DRAWING WOVEN AS A SILK JACQUARD.
08THE JEWELLERY IS KNOTS TOO, HAND CAST IN BRONZE, SILVER AND 18-CARAT GOLD BY THE MAKER JORDAN DRAFFIN TO LOOK LIKE SOFT TIED FABRIC.
09THE REST PULLS TOWARDS THE SEA: FLUID SILKS, LINEN SHOT WITH SHINING THREAD, CHINOS, DIRNDL SKIRTS AND OVERSIZED TRENCH COATS IN KHAKI, GREEN-GREY AND SUNSET PINK.
10THE TAILORING IS LOOSE, CUT FROM UNLINED WOOL ORGANZA WITH SOFT SHOULDERS. THE KNOTS TIGHTEN, SO THE WEARER SETS THE SHAPE.
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