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Max Mara SS27 in Milan, Far Horizon: the house takes the 1930s women who travelled as its starting point

Max Mara showed Far Horizon, its spring 2027 collection, at the Palazzo del Ghiaccio in Milan on 24 September. The setting was pristine and minimalist, and the palette stayed in neutral, earthy, sandy tones with white and black accents. The tailoring gives up rigidity for function rather than the other way round. Front row: Kelly Rutherford, Anna Ferzetti, Gao Ye, Luisa Ranieri, Paz Vega and Veronika Yoko. Griffiths, who is credited with the collection, says he hopes everyone watching can "recognise something of themselves in what they see". On the organza cargo vests he was blunt about the fantasy: he is not suggesting for a minute that women fill their pockets with notepads and compasses.

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The post, as it ran

01FAR HORIZON IS THE NAME MAX MARA GAVE ITS SPRING 2027 COLLECTION, WHICH RAN AT THE PALAZZO DEL GHIACCIO IN MILAN ON 24 SEPTEMBER.
02MAX MARA SAYS IT CAME FROM THE GLOBE-TROTTING WOMEN OF THE 1930s, AND FROM THEIR STURDY TRAVEL PARAPHERNALIA.
03IAN GRIFFITHS BUILT THE MOODBOARD FROM FIVE WOMEN. TWO WERE THE AVIATORS AMELIA EARHART AND BERYL MARKHAM.
04THE OTHERS WERE FREYA STARK, OSA JOHNSON, WHO PHOTOGRAPHED WILDLIFE, AND EVA DICKSON, WHO DROVE ACROSS CONTINENTS.
05THE SAFARI JACKET IS THE PIECE THE COLLECTION TURNS ON, DRAPED AND RECUT AT DIFFERENT LENGTHS, WORN WITH SHORTS, FLUID SKIRTS AND TIGHT KNITS.
06THERE ARE CARGO VESTS AND JUMPSUITS IN ORGANZA, TRENCH COATS CUT WIDE, AND JACKETS WITH AN AVIATOR LINE.
07THE BAGS CONVERT: CROSS BODY, THEN CLUTCH, THEN RUCKSACK.
08GRIFFITHS CALLS IT "GETTING UP IN THE MORNING AND GOING PLACES WITH A CERTAIN AMOUNT OF PANACHE".
09HE DESCRIBES THE MANTRA THE HOUSE WAS FOUNDED ON AS "REAL CLOTHES FOR REAL WOMEN", AND DATES IT TO THE 1960s.
10HE CALLS THE CATWALK "ONLY THE PRELUDE". THE REAL PRESENTATION, HE SAYS, IS SEEING WOMEN WEAR THE CLOTHES ON THE STREET.
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