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Hodakova SS27 in Paris: a runway of sea salt, clothes made from marine tackle, and the summer at sea behind it

Hodakova took the 18:00 slot on the first day of Paris Fashion Week, between MaXhosa Africa's first official runway show and Matières Fécales. The house is the one Ellen Hodakova Larsson founded in Stockholm in 2021 on upcycled material, sourcing from secondhand stores and other brands' surplus, an instinct she traces to her mother, a fur seamstress who took her to the secondhand store as a child. She trained at the Swedish School of Textiles after a year at art school. On 10 September 2024, at the Fondation Louis Vuitton, she won the LVMH Prize: 400,000 euros and a year of mentorship with LVMH. Le Grand Bleu, the film the soundtrack referenced, is Luc Besson's 1988 story of two free divers.

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The post, as it ran

01HODAKOVA WALKED ON SEA SALT. ELLEN HODAKOVA LARSSON'S SPRING 2027 SHOW, AT 18:00 ON PARIS'S FIRST DAY, WAS BUILT FROM MARINE TACKLE: ROPE, NETTING, SAILOR COLLARS.
02LARSSON GREW UP SAILING. THIS SUMMER, ON THE SECOND DAY OF TWO WEEKS AT SEA, HER PHONE DIED. IN HER WORDS, A VERY ZEN MOMENT WITH THE OCEAN.
03HER REASON, IN HER WORDS: I WANTED TO HIGHLIGHT THE AQUATIC WORLD BECAUSE THE OCEANS ARE ESSENTIAL FOR US TO BE ABLE TO LIVE.
04THE LABEL IS BUILT ON EXISTING MATERIAL. THIS TIME THE STAPLES, LEATHER AND BED LINENS, WERE JOINED BY THICK ROPE TOPS, NETTING AND SAILOR COLLARS.
05THE OPENING LOOKS FORMED A WARDROBE OF ARCHETYPES, FROM SHIFT TO TRENCH. THE PALETTE: WHITE, BLACK, POWDER PINK AND EARTH TONES.
06CORSET DRESSES, WHITE SUITS AND TRANSPARENT SLIPS: PIECES THAT LOOK RECOMPOSED FROM OTHER PIECES, WITH THE IMPERFECT DETAIL LEFT AS PART OF THE FORM.
07THE MODELS WALKED WITH EYES PAINTED ON THEIR EYELIDS. THE SOUNDTRACK REFERENCED LUC BESSON'S 1988 FILM LE GRAND BLEU.
08LARSSON, FROM STOCKHOLM, WON THE 2024 LVMH PRIZE FOR CLOTHES MADE FROM DISCARDED MATERIAL. HER BRAND DATES FROM 2021.
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