Maison Margiela SS27: Glenn Martens's hard-and-soft collection inside wilting flower walls by Mark Colle, the florist of Raf Simons's 2012 Dior debut

Maison Margiela's spring 2027 show ran at 17:30 on 29 September at the Élysée Montmartre in Paris, in rooms dressed floor to ceiling with flowers by Mark Colle, the florist who built the flower-walled rooms of Raf Simons's Dior couture debut in July 2012. This time the flowers were left to wilt. Glenn Martens, who left Diesel after its Milan show on 22 September, put the collection's idea in the house's own words: hardness added to archetypal garments. Draped dresses opened at the chest onto structured corsets, a white gown carried crushed cans and cutlery, and the house's Heel-less boots came out for men. Styling was by Ursina Gysi, casting by Dominique Vinant, make-up by Inge Grognard, hair by Tom Wright and sound by Senjan Jansen.

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The post, as it ran

01MAISON MARGIELA'S SPRING 2027 SHOW RAN AT 17:30 ON 29 SEPTEMBER AT THE ÉLYSÉE MONTMARTRE, A PARIS THEATRE, INSIDE WALLS OF FLOWERS.

02THE FLOWERS WERE FRESH, DECAYING AND DRIED, WITH ROSES ALREADY WILTING ON THE WALLS.

03THE FLORAL SET WAS BY MARK COLLE, THE ANTWERP FLORIST WHO LINED FIVE ROOMS OF A PARIS MANSION WITH FLOWERS FOR RAF SIMONS'S DIOR DEBUT IN JULY 2012.

04THE HOUSE CALLS THE SET AN HOMAGE TO THAT 2012 DEBUT BY A FELLOW BELGIAN, AS IF THE FLOWERS HAVE UNDERGONE THE EFFECTS OF TIME.

05BEFORE THE SHOW THE HOUSE POSTED VIDEOS OF A SILVER TEAPOT BEING CRUSHED UNDER A PRESS, A BODY CAUGHT IN A FISHING NET, AND FLOWERS DECAYING.

06ON THE RUNWAY, ONE WHITE GOWN CAME COVERED IN CRUSHED METAL CANS AND CUTLERY.

07THE HOUSE CALLED THE COLLECTION A STUDY IN HARD AND SOFT: HARDNESS ADDED TO ARCHETYPAL GARMENTS, TAILORING GIVEN NEW STRUCTURAL ELEMENTS, DRAPING GIVEN FOUNDATIONS TO FLOW FROM.

08DRAPED DRESSES BURST OPEN AT THE CHEST TO SHOW A CORSET IN A CONTRASTING STRUCTURED FABRIC. BUTTON-DOWN SHIRTS SPLIT TO EXPOSE A CLOTH-COVERED CHEST.

09THE MODELS WALKED, FACES POWDERED, TO COURTNEY LOVE SINGING HOLE'S 1994 TRACK VIOLET.

10IT WAS GLENN MARTENS'S FIRST MARGIELA SHOW SINCE HIS LAST FOR DIESEL, IN MILAN ON 22 SEPTEMBER. HE NOW WORKS FOR ONE HOUSE.

From the archive

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