FeedBalenciaga

Balenciaga SS27 by Pierpaolo Piccioli: couture stitching on a white shirt, bias-cut jeans Cristóbal never used, couture into the daily wardrobe, the Tennis Club

Pierpaolo Piccioli has been at Balenciaga for a year, following Demna, and showed his first couture collection for the house in July. This collection carries that couture into ordinary clothes: shirts, T-shirts and denim, worked with couture stitching and cut. Bias cutting lets fabric follow the body without side seams, which is why the jeans needed no out-seams. Piccioli found no bias cut in the founder's archive. "Cristóbal never used the bias if you look in the archive," he said.

The weekly

NewsletterWeekly One email a week. Every post from the week, and what didn't fit on a slide.
Free. Never shared. Unsubscribe any time.

The post, as it ran

01PIERPAOLO PICCIOLI OPENED BALENCIAGA'S SPRING 2027 SHOW WITH A WHITE SHIRT GIVEN A PEPLUM BY ROWS OF DENSE STITCHING.
02IT CAME WITH JEANS CUT ON THE BIAS, A COUTURE TECHNIQUE PICCIOLI SAYS CRISTÓBAL BALENCIAGA NEVER USED.
03A WHITE T-SHIRT GOT THE SAME STITCHING. THE AIM, PICCIOLI SAID, WAS TO GET COUTURE 'INTO THE DAILY WARDROBE'.
04THE SHOW RAN ACROSS THE WHITE FLOOR OF THE TENNIS CLUB DE PARIS.
05AT ITS CENTRE STOOD A TEXTILE SCULPTURE BY THE FRENCH ARTIST AUDE FRANJOU, EVOKING CORAL.

From the archive

ArchiveArchiveCristóbal Balenciaga's Spanish start6 beatsRead ArchiveArchivePaco Rabanne's 1966 debut, Twelve Unwearable Dresses in Contemporary Materials5 beatsRead ArchiveArchiveCristóbal Balenciaga closes his couture house in 1968 aged 74, abruptly6 beatsRead Open on Instagram