01IN 1937 ELSA SCHIAPARELLI PUT A GIANT LOBSTER ON A WHITE SILK
EVENING GOWN. THE DRAWING WAS NOT HERS. SALVADOR DALI
SKETCHED IT, AND SCHIAPARELLI, THE COUTURIER WHO TREATED
CLOTHES AS ART, HAD IT PRINTED ACROSS THE SKIRT.
02THE LOBSTER DRESS BECAME FAMOUS FAST. CECIL BEATON
PHOTOGRAPHED IT ON WALLIS SIMPSON, SOON TO BE DUCHESS OF
WINDSOR, AND VOGUE RAN THE PICTURES ACROSS EIGHT PAGES IN
JUNE OF 1937. A CARTOON CRUSTACEAN ON A MUCH-WATCHED WOMAN.
03THE LOBSTER WAS NOT INNOCENT. DALI, WHO USED THE ANIMAL
OFTEN, PLACED IT LOW ON THE SKIRT, A PRIVATE SURREALIST JOKE
ABOUT SEX THAT SIMPSON EITHER MISSED OR IGNORED.
SCHIAPARELLI LET THE PAINTER'S OBSESSION WALK INTO A TROUSSEAU.
04THE LOBSTER WAS ONLY THE START. TOGETHER THEY MADE THE SHOE
HAT OF 1937, A HAT SHAPED LIKE A HIGH-HEELED SHOE WORN UPSIDE
DOWN ON THE HEAD, ITS HEEL IN SHOCKING PINK, THE COLOUR
SCHIAPARELLI HAD JUST MADE HER SIGNATURE.
05IN 1938 CAME THE TEARS DRESS AND THE SKELETON DRESS, BOTH
FROM HER CIRCUS COLLECTION. ONE WAS PRINTED WITH TROMPE-
L'OEIL RIPS, AS IF IT HAD BEEN CLAWED. THE OTHER RAISED A
SKELETON'S RIBS IN PADDED QUILTING ON BLACK CREPE.
06SCHIAPARELLI CALLED HER CLOTHES A COLLABORATION WITH ARTISTS.
CHANEL, HER GREAT RIVAL, DISMISSED HER AS 'THAT ITALIAN ARTIST
WHO MAKES CLOTHES.' NEARLY A CENTURY ON, THE JOKES HANG IN
MUSEUMS, AND SCHIAPARELLI IS A COUTURE HOUSE AGAIN.