Halston's Ultrasuede shirtdress sold 60,000 in a season
Halston's move here was subtraction: he took the plainest garment going, a man's shirt, and rebuilt it in a fabric no couturier would touch. Ultrasuede was washable, forgiving and cheap to care for, which is precisely why it read as modern luxury in 1972 rather than as a compromise. The 60,000-a-season shirtdress became the blueprint for relaxed American minimalism, and the fabric went on to line his coats and luggage.